Written by Paul Nagaoka in Tips & Advice on the 30th August 2017

I’m all about timeless style. Looks without an expiry date. For a look to make its way into my wardrobe it must pass the following test… it worked ten years ago, it works now, and it will work ten years from now. I also like to follow the concept of a minimalist capsule wardrobe, which utilises the most essential high-quality pieces of clothing to create multiple great looks. This way you can fit your entire wardrobe in just one big suitcase and still have well thought out outfits for every occasion.

Here I am sharing with you one of the top 10 essential looks you can build your entire wardrobe with. The first look is a fitted navy suit, white button up, grey tie and finishing white pocket square. This look will never lose its lustre and will make you look awesome every time you put it on. The key to doing the navy suit (and suiting in general) right are all in the details. Here is what you should focus on; I call this look “the confidence booster.” It’s the look that I go to when I’m impressing a client or for a date. When you wear this look right you will feel like a million dollars, yet, you don't have to part with a million dollars to get it.

Thin lapels and a skinny tie: You never want anything wide around your face because it makes everything else appear wider, which is something you most likely don’t want. Let me bust the myth of the association of wide makes you appear more powerful. It doesn’t, it just makes you look fatter. 

Perfect fit: The areas to look for are the shoulders, where the top button of your blazer buttons, and the amount of extra space you have around your bicep. All these should be snug but not tight. You want to be able to comfortably put your arms in your jacket yet not leave excessive fabric. 

The length of your blazer sleeves: This may feel counter intuitive but your sleeve length should be a bit short. You always want your white button up to show approx. ¾ of an inch below your blazer. 

Pocket Square: There are so many ways to wear a pocket square but I recommend the simple one. The straight-line fold is understated yet screams class. The other more boisterous folds feel like you're trying too hard. 

Trousers: You want them to fit you like a fitted pair of jeans. It's the space in between slim fit and relaxed fit you are looking to find. 

Shoes: The key with shoes is they are there simply to complement your outfit and not to make a statement. This is why I believe you should avoid wingtips or any other major details. Also avoid a boxy shape. 

Watch: As it is the case with other accessories, a watch should not stand out too much as to take the attention off of your whole look. It should simply but elegantly fit into the overall look and style. Therefore, it’s best to select the classy dress watch with a black strap (to match your black shoes) and a white background on the dial. 

Tie Bar: not only will it keep your tie in place at all times, but it also helps to add that extra touch to your navy suit look. Silver tie bars work perfect in this case, as it suits the grey tie, and blends seamlessly into the overall look. As we are going with a slim tie here, make sure that the length of your tie bar is no more than 75-80% of the width of your tie. 

Belt: it’s an accessory and should never be a necessity in your outfit (meaning your trousers should always be fit to wear without a belt). It’s up to you to choose whether you’d like to add it to your suit look or not. When choosing a belt to go with your navy suit, opt for a plain black belt (to match your black shoes) with a single silver buckle, which will match nicely with your silver tie bar. The normal widths for a dress belt is around 1 ¼”.

We tap Paul Nagaoka to give us his expert opinion on How Men Can Build the Perfect Go-To Navy Suit Look with accessories such as a tie bar and belt.