Written by Menswear Style in New Collections on the 11th January 2020

Canali recently hosted the premiere of their Autumn/Winter 2020 collection at the Odeon Cinema in Florence. The brand’s emblematic brand values – sartorial expertise, innovation, and attention to detail – unfold in a new collection architecture that encompasses three distinct yet complementary pillars: Black Edition, Exclusive, and Canali 1934. Each segment contains a selection of formalwear, sportswear, and accessories; and embody a personal style for every scene of life.

The spectator thus has the opportunity to wander in an ever-growing menswear universe where consciousness and identity are key factors when culling a style. An all-around depiction that conquers the traditional distinction between formal and casual through three diverse lifestyle proposals that portray the multifaceted story of the modern man.

The Black Edition is inspired by an urban, dynamic lifestyle manifested in exceptionally functional and versatile garments. The outerwear comprises pocketable garments, items with removable layers and hoods, and oversized puffer jackets. The selection also includes hybrid pieces like a maxi-parka with an integrated backpack and multi-pocket vests inspired by utility-wear. Distinctive stylistic elements are conceived with blends of technical and natural fabrics. The result are poli-material garments that play with lime green, charcoal grey, and black through colour-blocking and texture mix-and-matching. Style and performance merge together in an interpretation that draws directly from activewear, like rubber elements and heat-sealed seams. But more importantly; the knits, shirts, and outerwear are made with an ergonomic construction designed to follow the movement of the body and better define the silhouette. This dynamic fit also translates into the suits, which achieve a synthesis between innovation and Canali's sartorial expertise. These are made of stretch-wool combined with a new form of canvas rendered in a technical material that creates a slim shape and increases the performance of the garment.

The Exclusive is the highest expression of Italian elegance displayed in sophisticated detailing, materials, and techniques. The garments introduce stylistic elements of the utmost sartorial tradition – blazers come with wide lapels and silk thread hand-embroidered buttonholes, while shoulder seams are made with a gathering method. The high-waisted trousers have a wider fit on the hips that fades at the bottom of the leg and is enhanced by double front pleats; this added to the wide waistband with double buttoning and buckle side-adjusters. Every detail brings an incomparable softness to the look and expresses the personality of the wearer. The design is composed by clean lines that allow for a lighter construction and add emphasis to the quality and fluidity of the fabrics, showcasing a unique softness and shine. The perfect example of such are the silk coat and bomber jacket, and the oversized capes in double cashmere. Leather and fur come together in refined processes with precious yarns that follow a colour palette based on sophisticated tones such as cream, pearl grey, and white with dark brown accents.

The Canali 1934 is gracefully renovated with precise and judicious stylistic choices in blue, grey, and Bordeaux. The line reinterprets the iconic garments of the male wardrobe and the traditional patterns of our sartorial heritage such as Damier, Prince of Wales, and Birdseye. Shimmering and frosted effects on wool flannels, wool-silk bouclés and wool-cashmere blends bring added flair to the outerwear. The characteristic winter camel coat is available as a single-breasted item with wide patch pockets or as a double-breasted robe coat with wide lapels. The fit of the blazers is designed for dynamic comfort both in the classic tailored pieces–deconstructed with lightened compositions – and in their wool jersey counterparts. A section of the collection is dedicated to the return of the raincoat, an icon of male style. A tribute to the origins of the Canali company, which began its journey in 1934 with the production of these garments. Three models are offered and characterised by a combination of classic elements and contemporary details. A trench coat in a luminous fabric with leather inserts, a coat in cotton gabardine with detachable padded interior, and finally a winter carcoat with velvet details.

Launched at the Odeon Cinema in Florence, we take a first look at the Black Edition, Exclusive and 1934 Collections Premiered by Canali for Autumn/Winter 2020.