Written by Menswear Style in New Collections on the 12th June 2019

The spring/summer 2020 Belstaff collection is the second by Lehnhardt-Moore: a contemporary take on the brand’s history, his ideas evolved after discovering two pieces in the archive, which led him on an imaginative journey that forms the Travelogue of the collection’s title.

“Since its first days in the 1920s in the industrial north of England, Belstaff has always made kit for those who love to travel and explore. With the pace of modern life being ‘always-on’ it feels we have now come full circle, as we crave experiences that take us back to nature; personal journeys of discovery that take us off the beaten track – that is what has inspired this season’s collection: Travelogue.” Sean Lehnhardt-Moore, Belstaff Creative Director.

Belstaff creates a functional and contemporary range of stylish clothing and accessories for men and women who want an effortless and fluid wardrobe for all modes of a busy modern life; work, leisure, travel; day to evening. The intent is to move towards a more conscious and sustainable approach to clothes that will be purposeful and remain beyond seasons. Belstaff selected Hoxton Docks during London Fashion Week Men's to showcase the collection, with its exposed brickwork, metal struts and warehouse proportions, the venue mirrors the label’s industrial heritage. For Travelogue, the space evokes a desert road trip, with vintage camping canvas, a large tent and cacti.

“I found two jackets that were the ignition for me,” he explains. “One was a cotton fishing jacket called the Castmaster, the other was a crisp, nautical jacket from the 70s – the XL500. The Collection became about the fusion of these two spirits. Both pieces had Belstaff’s signature use of the best fabrics and finishes, and yet each interpreted these qualities in different ways. I was interested in the juxtaposition of fabrics using Linen and Cotton that have a lived-in quality, but mixing them with something that’s very Belstaff, such as ‘Oxford Nylon’.”

The collection is kept modern with the use of contrasts. Juxtaposing fabrications and colours, the soft linens with the hard hand waxed leathers, the worn in with the new, safari mixed with utility, rugged with polished; these contrasts provide the essential look for a modern wardrobe. A worn-in look is created throughout via the use of ‘Slub’ yarns and pigment-dyed fabrics. A battered khaki safari jacket is teamed with raw ‘Ecru Denim’, while a new ‘Adventure Print’ featuring line-drawn illustrations is applied to a rayon shirt for women and a linen one for men. Other pieces, in vintage dyed ‘Sahara Cloth’ and ‘Cotton Broadcloth’, have a military look, while knits are rougher. The influence of the military is apparent in the use of deep English rifle green and there is the introduction of ‘Camo-tech’ fabric.

There’s a sleeveless version of the Castmaster fishing jacket from the archive in orange dry ‘Waxed Cotton’, while a khaki version retains the sleeves of the original. Super-fine knits and ‘Oiled Suede’ clean up the look, contrasted with ‘Sun-faded Cotton’ pique shirts and sweatshirts for men and women. The patchwork Trialmaster highlights the idea of contrasts, while the XL500 technical jacket, reimagined in ‘Oxford Nylon’ is a contemporary addition. Trooper boots in brown leather and canvas, along with a chukka boot with a commando sole in suede, and stonewashed cross-body canvas bags with leather trims finish off the look for the modern man.

With quotes from Creative Director Sean Lehnhardt-Moore we take a first look at the Belstaff SS20 Travelogue Collection which was launched at Hoxton Docks for LFWM.